Indian Wells: The Official Tournament Guide
- CHARLIE RAY & CAROLINE DIDELOTSome guides write themselves. Others give you colossal writer's block. For a tournament dubbed "Tennis Paradise," we expected Indian Wells to bowl us over with adoration, inspire heaps of praise via this guide, and give us the feeling that we never wanted to leave. Instead, by the time our days at the tournament were up, it was certainly time to leave — and perhaps time to take a hard look at what Indian Wells, the tennis paradise of 10-15 years ago, actually has to offer fans, attendees, and the overall tournament calendar. In its current state? Not much.
Nestled in the low plain of the Coachella Valley lies the Indian Wells Tennis Garden, home of the BNP Paribas Open since 2000. Indian Wells is famous for being many things: Tennis Paradise, The Fifth Slam, the "better" half of the Sunshine Double (see our Miami Open guide and live ranking to settle that debate once and for all). It is mostly marketed and positioned as the best place on earth for tennis lovers. It also carries some baggage.
Indian Wells is, infamously, the site of the horribly racist bullying of Serena and the Williams family in 2001, in which a predominantly white, affluent crowd — convinced the family had engineered Venus's injury withdrawal to fix the draw — responded with boos and racial slurs. More recently, the tournament drew sharp criticism for converting Stadium 2, its second-largest court, to ticketed entry in 2026 after years of operating under a general admission policy for grounds pass holders.
That money-hungry, hierarchical ethos has, unfortunately, permeated the way the tournament operates and rendered a rather unfavorable experience for true tennis fans. This so-called Tennis "Paradise" needs some course correction (and quickly) before it starts to resemble a different Dante epic.
The Grounds
Indian Wells is an expansive tennis campus built around a very large Center Court (Stadium 1) and a secondary Stadium 2. Seating for all other outer courts exists only via temporary bleachers (no additional permanent structures). The grounds are easily navigable, with everything being somewhat centered around the large outer walls of Stadium 1. Food, beverage, and commercial stalls line the front bay, and a few central bar and seating areas split the grounds between Stadium 1 and the outer courts.
Practice courts sit at the back of the map, with a handful notably made inaccessible via player crossover zones. Unlike at other major tournaments, Indian Wells blocks off access to a number of otherwise-accessible practice courts, often taking top players' sessions entirely out of view.
One of the first indications that we might not be in tennis paradise was the overall state of the grounds. Outside of the structures themselves being visibly dated, the Indian Wells Tennis Garden didn't seem to be "working" fully on any of the days we were there.
For starters, the campus had no WiFi. This is critical, as the dense crowds also leave most attendees with no cell service. You might ask: why do you need WiFi at a tennis tournament? Just watch the tennis! But you need connectivity to coordinate with companions who've split off to catch a different match. You need it to track live scores and plan your day around court schedules. Speaking from experience, I was completely unable to break off and watch two lesser-attended matches because I had no way to communicate with the rest of my party once ready to meet back up. That's a real problem.
On top of that, on both days we attended, all of the tournament's water refill stations were not working. This resulted in overinflated concession lines, severe overpayment for bottled water, and general attendee frustration at the inability to cool off or stay hydrated.
The Stadiums
The next indication that we might not be in tennis paradise came while trying to catch matches on the outer courts. It's a bit odd that a year-round tennis tournament of this stature only has two courts with non-bleacher seats. In 2026, with Stadium 2 converted to ticketed entry, the equivalent of a stadium's worth of extra attendees were loaded into the outer courts daily. The overflow was extremely difficult to manage. Outer courts were overattended and unpleasant. Stadium 2 sat near-empty.
The overall outer court experience was rather dodgy. Ushering was extremely inconsistent and really detracted from the experience. Many ushers didn't adhere to the changeover-seating rule at all, while others clearly overcorrected — telling folks in the stands that they couldn't leave at all. Not just that they'd lose their seat, or that exits should happen on changeovers. That they absolutely could not move until the end of the match. Imagine that! The final twist of the knife was that many ushers showed complete disrespect for the sport itself, talking loudly to friends and colleagues during games, across sections, on their phones.
Stadium 1 is a different story. It is inarguably a fantastic and iconic tennis venue. The seats and vantage points most closely resemble Arthur Ashe to me, in that the rake is steep (but as a result, higher-level seats are closer to the action and therefore much more tolerable).
All in, the grounds at Indian Wells need a makeover and perhaps more than just a coat of paint. What started to reveal itself at this point was that the tournament is rather out of touch with what the average tennis diehard wants from a tournament.
The City / Area
Indian Wells itself seems to only exist to house country clubs and golf resorts (which does make it a natural location for a tennis tournament). This means you'll more than likely affix a jaunt or two to Palm Springs with your trip, which is an excellent idea. Palm Springs is a true oasis filled with hotels, restaurants, shopping, and overall vibrant life. Indian Wells, by contrast, is really constrained to a handful of resorts, small Airbnbs, and very few restaurants that are not chains.
Our recommendation is to stay in Indian Wells for your actual tournament days, but add a few days in Palm Springs on either side to get the best experience overall. That's what we did, and we left feeling perfectly satisfied. Do not stay in Palm Springs and commute over to Indian Wells for your tournament days. You'll experience some fairly backed-up roads that you'll want to otherwise avoid.
Restaurants are rather thin in the town of Indian Wells, but we've heard of folks venturing a town or two over to places like Palm Desert and finding great food. Our party was very impressed by Tia Carmen, attached to the Grand Hyatt resort, and would recommend it without hesitation (which is more than we can say for the few other resort restaurants we explored).
We were able to snag an Airbnb within walking distance of the grounds for a reasonably inflated price. Look as close to a year in advance as possible if you plan to do the same, as those homes book up quickly.
Tournament Experience
Surprising to our group was the learning that, by 2026, pretty much every other major tennis tournament we’ve attended (and certainly every other American tournament) has now surpassed Indian Wells in terms of food and beverage, brand activations, and overall fan experience. With the exception of the Nobu on the grounds (which we opted to skip -- perhaps a mistake?), Indian Wells has the least to offer in terms of overall experience. Perhaps this was not the case when the tournament really began to commercialize 15-20 years ago, but it is starkly and loudly the case now.
Food & Beverage
The food & beverage scene at Indian Wells was disappointing. Do note (as mentioned above) that this guide excludes a visit to the IW Nobu, as that’s something that we skipped altogether. The actual vendors on the grounds left much to be desired and were not memorable whatsoever.
For starters, the tournament was missing a fully functional coffee and breakfast stall, which is absolutely vital at a tennis tournament wherein you’re asking folks to arrive at 10a (or earlier). There was a coffee stall, but it had zero options for breakfast food; worse yet, online, it mentioned that this stall would have croissants and pastries. When we arrived, they weren’t sold out, no: they never carried those things to begin with. Lies and deceit!
It must also be acknowledged that there was very little fun food localization at the tournament. This might be because “California food” means almost nothing in comparison to the instantly identifiable food Meccas of New York, Miami, and Cincinnati (slightly facetious re: the last one, but do see: Skyline Chili). There were a few good California vendors, the best of which might have been Sumo Dog (and their hamburgers), but altogether disappointing food ill suited for a match.
Finally, and I cannot stress this enough: Indian Wells created the worst signature cocktail I have ever encountered in my life. I’m including a photo of it here so you can fully understand the horror. The Drop Shot. This is a pineapple and tequila drink that tastes about as radioactive as it looks. My friends and I were horrified that something like this was being served at what purports itself to be the classiest tennis tournament of the calendar.
Brand Activations
With the West Coast being home (aka HQ) to so many major corporate players, and Indian Wells positioned as the flashy stop for Hollywood’s tennis-adjacent crowd, we expected brand activations to be, at minimum, compelling. Instead, they were underwhelming at best. One brand did rise above the rest in terms of hype: Lululemon, but before you get excited, let us tell you the whole story.
For 2026, Lululemon was the official apparel and footwear outfitter of the BNP Paribas Open. What that meant in practice was that ball kids and even security guards were head-to-toe in Lululemon gear, alongside their two sponsored players, Frances Tiafoe and Leylah Fernandez. Ahead of the tournament, Lululemon had already previewed an exclusive tennis collection at the US Open, and leaned heavily into social with an on-site pop-up at Indian Wells. And I won’t lie, it looked excellent on all social platforms.
My friend and I started the day with our credit cards held high. The only way into the pop-up was to arrive right at opening and join what was already a very long line (how it was already that long, I still cannot explain). After about an hour of waiting, we finally got in, only to discover the pop-up was not what our influencer friends had promised. From there, we faced a second, equally long line to customize apparel, which felt like the true experience, though we’ll never know.
So, in short: worth the hype or the wait? No. Did we leave with a t-shirt for our efforts? Yes. Another example of a “Cheeseburger in Paradise” that’s missing the cheese.
Tips & Tricks
You might begin to sense the overall direction of this guide, but it’s worth clarifying: Indian Wells is an iconic piece of tennis history and a pivotal milestone for both the ATP and WTA tours. You should still go -- and if you do, here are our tips for how to properly prepare and enjoy. In the spirit of adopting a bit more of a “winning” attitude for Indian Wells, Caroline has organized these into 5 “W”s:
Weather
The weather at Indian Wells stays true to its desert roots. It’s overcast and very windy until about 1pm, and then — suddenly — you’re in the hot, hot desert sun until the evening session, when you’ll want your pants and coat back on. Temperamental dressing to match temperamental weather, so come prepared. Grab those free sunscreen samples, and skip the t-shirt, get a “seat towel” as your souvenir instead. If you’re sitting on an outer court (which, as you now know, are all bleachers), your butt not burning, but actually feeling quite comfortable in a rather uncomfortable seat, will make for a much better experience while you sweat profusely.
Worn
As we always say: do as we say, not as we do. I (Caroline) will continue to serve as the cautionary tale, so you don’t have to make the same mistakes. First lesson: a dress, especially a mini dress, is not your friend at a tournament like Indian Wells. Between the outer courts with hot metal bleachers branding your thighs, center court seats that flip up from under you, winds that have their own agenda, and the AM & PM chill, the odds are simply not in your favor.
Day two was a modest improvement: a breathable Wilson short-sleeve knit top with white shorts, later swapped for white jeans and a black jacket for the evening session.
Curious what I actually wore? Check it out on our Instagram (@best.of.ten) here. And again, do as we say, not as we do. More on that below.
Witnessed
Even though Indian Wells is close to LA, the outfits felt a bit removed from what we think of as typical “LA style.” As we’ve learned from American tournaments, the priority is not just American, it’s comfortable. Immediately, there’s a strong showing of hiker-in-the-desert energy: safari and bucket hats, plenty of activewear (very Cincinnati Open-adjacent), and, for those opting out of both, flowing dresses that still manage to be comfortable without committing to either camp.
Would Recommend
Arguably one of my favorite outfits of the tournament came from a friend of one of Victoria Mboko’s sisters, who wore something very close to a Paige Lorenze look that went viral at the Australian Open in 2025: white Bermuda shorts, a black tank, and black kitten heels, finished with very fine accessories—a proper black belt, sunglasses, jewelry, etc. And yes, she paired it with what may have been the world’s smallest Chanel purse, perfectly sized for the bag policy. More on that below.
Trying to figure out what to wear for Indian Wells left me oddly uninspired. There’s very little online when it comes to actual tournament dressing. It’s mostly celebrities, and even then, it’s hard to find the average spectator showing off an outfit at the tournament. Which, honestly, may tell you everything you need to know. Your best bet is to borrow inspiration from someone whose style you trust in a setting like California, which is not exactly a difficult assignment. Paige Lorenze is a great place to start if you need to get the wheels turning for “off-court tennis style.” Kendall Jenner once sent me down an entire Ralph Lauren rabbit hole. Dressing for Indian Wells is, in many ways, a blank canvas for American style.
What to Bring
Indian Wells has one of the wildest bag policies I’ve ever seen, so much so that a friend and I briefly considered starting a company just for this tournament. Your options are simple. A clear bag, which unfortunately we have yet to find a cute version of, or the world’s smallest purse at 4.5" x 6.5". Yes, inches. The ushers will literally hold up a postcard cut to those exact dimensions, and if you are even half an inch over, you are not getting in.
My best advice is this. If you are a couple, find a purse that is both cute and compliant, and a camera bag your husband is willing to carry that also meets the requirements. Otherwise, commit to the clear bag and do not look back.
Final Verdict
We have a lot to say about Indian Wells. As semi (semi, demi, barely, etc.) part-time amateur tennis-tournament-goers, we were excited beyond belief to attend. When we left, we felt dissatisfied. The tournament is not in great shape, especially compared to the consistently growing and adapting American tournaments, and its lag (or move in the wrong direction) is sorely felt.
I believe it comes down to this: Indian Wells has shifted its consumer profile to someone who is deeply disinterested in tennis. With all of its buzz, hype, and see-and-be-seen aura, the tournament has abandoned the profile of those who follow the sport.
It would be easy to reduce the argument to money and say Indian Wells only prioritizes experience if you're willing to pay. But the question is: even with a $100,000 budget, would I get the best experience as a tennis fan? Regardless of how much money a true tennis fan is willing to spend, they will always choose the last row of outer court bleachers to watch Fernandez vs. Andreeva before they choose courtside at Stadium 1 for Sabalenka vs. Sakatsume. They will always choose amazing food vendors in the concourse (so they can bring their refreshments to the court) over missing matches at Nobu. The issue goes deeper than money. Many tennis fans would go pure-ramen for six months to save up for a once-in-a-lifetime tennis experience. I don't believe Indian Wells has the capacity to deliver that.
I do believe Indian Wells can deliver a fun weekend for someone planning a trip with friends and deciding between an F1 race, Coachella, or a tennis tournament. In that battle, they might win their audience over and impress them with the overall experience of what it is to be at a tennis tournament.
So, in conclusion: "tennis paradise"? Perhaps tennis is occurring in the natural paradise of the Coachella Valley. Perhaps they have constructed paradise and tennis happens to be occurring on the grounds. But tennis paradise is a moniker that Indian Wells has squarely lost its right to. We hope to see it discover (or rediscover) some of that magic soon.